Ingredients Watch list

Triclosan has proven adverse health effects in both humans and animals, and is readily absorbed through the skin and mucous membranes. It has been shown to disrupt thyroid hormone-associated gene expression and can alter hormone regulation in animal studies. It may also contribute to antibiotic resistance and environmental issues.

Toluene is a neurotoxin found in nail polish or remover and hair dyes. It is not typically found in skin care products, and is highly toxic to humans. Toluene exposure is linked to neurological harm, developmental and reproductive toxicity, and immune system toxicity.

Parabens are a group of chemicals that are commonly used as preservatives in cosmetic products. However, their safety has been questioned due to their potential to mimic estrogen at low levels in mice trials. Although parabens are suspected of interfering with hormone function and have been found in breast tumor tissue, it's important to note that no scientific evidence has linked them to breast cancer. The EU regulatory body considers the 0.03% to 0.1% concentration of parabens used in most skin care products as safe.

Polysorbate-60 and Polysorbate-80 are emulsifiers that are generally considered safe in concentrations of 1-5%, with higher concentrations causing skin irritation. However, ethylene oxide, a chemical used in making them, is highly cancerous and can have developmental and reproductive toxicity. Products with polysorbate 60 and 80 can be contaminated with residual ethylene oxide. A second chemical of concern is 1,4-dioxane that is also used in the production of polysorbates. It has been proven to be cancerous in animals and presumed to be in humans, however, it usually occurs in very low concentrations in most skin care products and evaporates quickly when applied to skin, thus further reducing the amount available for absorption. 

Petrolatum is a colourless and odourless by-product of petroleum refining. It is commonly used in skincare products due to its water-repellent properties that create a barrier against the evaporation of the skin's natural moisture. However If a highly refined form of petrolatum is not used, PAHs can contaminate products containing petrolatum. The concerns with potential contamination with Polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs), is that they are known to cause cancer. The European Union mandates that for cosmetic use, the full refining history of petrolatum must be known and proven to be non-carcinogenic, while the US has no such requirements.

These preservatives are toxic in very high doses (50% or more) which does not occur with their use in skincare products, however, they are well established allergens and irritants that can cause dermatitis.

Imidazolidinyl Urea and Diazolidinyl Urea are known as a formaldehyde releaser and are used as an antimicrobial preservative in skincare and beauty products. Unfortunately, formaldehyde is a known carcinogen in humans. In the EU, formaldehyde, or formaldehyde-releasing chemicals, are required to be below 0.2% and labels be put on the product. In the US, there is no limit on the levels of formaldehyde in body products, no requirement to test products containing formaldehyde-releasing chemicals for levels of formaldehyde, and no requirement to inform consumers it is contained in the product.

Hydroquinone is a chemical commonly used for lightening skin hyperpigmentation, and is associated with skin irritation and may have carcinogenic potential. It is banned in over the counter products in the majority of countries and requires a prescription and monitoring by a licensed physician due to its toxicity.

Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (or octinoxate) is a chemical used to protect skin or skincare products from damage or deterioration caused by UV rays. In the US it can be used up to a concentration of 7.5% in sunscreen products, and up to 10% in the EU. There was some concern that these chemicals could have an estrogen like activity in humans, however, the European Commission’s Scientific Committee for Cosmetic Products and Non-Food Products Intended for Consumers (SCCNFP) concluded that they do not have estrogenic effects.

Chemical UV filters, such as Octinoxate, are known to have a detrimental impact on marine ecosystems and contribute to coral bleaching. This, in turn, can be harmful to the entire ecosystems that coral reefs support.

DMDM Hydantoin is an antimicrobial used as a preservative in skin care products. Similar to  Imidazolidinyl urea, it is a formaldehyde releasing preservative that can cause allergic reactions. Please see the description for Imidazolidinyl urea as it pertains to formaldehyde. 

Cocamide DEA is a chemical used in skin care as either a foam booster or as a surfactant. Under certain conditions, nitrosation of cocamide diethanolamine yields N-nitrosodiethanolamine, known to be a potent carcinogen in humans and animals. When reviewed the chemical was considered safe in rinse-off products, at concentrations lower than 10%, and in products that do not form N-nitroso compounds. The EU has restrictions on nitrosamine contamination in cosmetics. In the US, California has listed cocamide DEA as a chemical known to cause cancer.

Butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT) is a synthetic antioxidant used as a preservative. When consumed orally it has been shown to have negative health effects on the liver and kidneys, however, these are at much higher doses than what is used in skin care. Thankfully, the preservative is not well absorbed through skin, further reducing the likelihood of negative health effects. It is considered as safe in concentrations less than 0.08% in rinse-off and leave on products. Aditionally BHT is suspected of causing skin irritation and may have endocrine-disrupting effects.

Butylated hydroxyanisole is a chemical preservative used in skin care and food. It is generally considered safe for topical use and is not currently prohibited in the US or the EU, but in a study with mice it was found to cause cancer following oral consumption.

Benzophenone-3and-1, also known as oxybenzone, is an ingredient in sunscreen that is absorbed through the skin in significant amounts. In a study on rodents, benzophenone-3 and especially benzophenone-1 (its primarily metabolite) showed estrogenic activity at human-relevant concentrations. Additionally, a meta-analysis study identified a higher concern for North Americans, showing urinary Benzophenone-3 concentrations on average 10 and 20 times higher than European and Asian populations, respectively. In mammalian studies, it causes liver cancer and lymphomas, and in the presence of light, can increase skin cancer. The EU has restrictions on the use of benzophenone-3 and-1 in cosmetics. The US FDA has approved it as a sunscreen ingredient.

Additionally this sunscreen ingredient is known to disrupts coral reproduction, causes coral bleaching, and damages coral DNA.

Acrylate copolymer is a film forming agent used in skin care and cosmetics. These large polymers are not well absorbed through the skin so there is not much scientific data on their effects. However, their monomer components have been studied. Acrylic acid at high concentrations can cause irritation and toxicity. Methacrylic acid can be corrosive and irritating to mucous membranes and lungs (if inhaled). Formulations containing more than 5% methacrylic acid in Canada are required to have a disclaimer on the packaging. 2 Ethylhexyl acrylate was found to be carcinogenic at concentrations greater than 21% in mice.

Homosalate is an ingredient commonly found in sunscreen. The European Union has limited the concentration of homosalate in sunscreen to less than 10%. However, more recently, the European Commission has found that homosalate is not safe at concentrations up to 10% and changed he regulation of a maximum of 0.5% in finished products. This is primarily due to its hormone disruption, but it can also be broken down into harmful byproducts over time.The US allows sunscreen manufacturers to use it in concentrations up to 15%.

Ethanolamines are used as emulsifiers, pH stabilizers, and thickening agents in body care, skin care, and cleaning products. This family of chemicals can become cancerous if they react with other ingredients to form nitrosodiethanolamine. Experimental studies have shown this carcinogenic compound can cause liver cancer and kidney tumors in rats, and nasal cavity cancers in hamsters. It was also shown to accumulate in the liver and kidney to toxic levels, and exposure during pregnancy can affect development of the offspring. The EU has restrictions on the use of ethanolamines in cosmetics. The US FDA monitors their use and has issued warnings about nitrosamine contamination.

5-bromo-5-nitro-1,3 dioxane (also known as bronidox) is a preservative used in skin care and cosmetic products. It is both a formaldehyde releaser, and can react with other ingredients to form nitrosamines. Both of these chemicals are known carcinogens in humans.The EU has banned 5-bromo-5-nitro-1, 3 dioxane in cosmetics. The US does not have specific bans but regulates formaldehyde levels.

Octocrylene is a commonly used ingredient in sunscreen and anti-aging creams. However, it is important to note that it naturally breaks down into a chemical called benzophenone. Benzophenone is known to be harmful to the endocrine system, an irritant, an allergen, and even a carcinogen. You can find more information on benzophenone if you want to know more about its harmful effects. The EU has specific regulations on the use of octocrylene in cosmetics. The US FDA has approved it as a sunscreen ingredient

Moreover, octocrylene accumulates in coral as fatty acid esters that could be toxic to marine organisms and which has a detrimental impact on marine ecosystems and contributes to coral bleaching. This, in turn, can be harmful to the entire ecosystems that coral reefs support.

2-bromo-2 nitropropane-1,3-diol (also known as bonopol) is an antimicrobial preservative agent. It is both a formaldehyde releaser and can form nitrosamines by interacting with other ingredients. Both formaldehyde and nitrosamines are known carcinogens in humans.