Skin-Nomad's Take — At a Glance

• Dense soap-based foam with hydrolysed collagen
• 46.6% collagen extract with 1% niacinamide
• For normal, combination and oily skin

A cleanser is judged on how skin feels a minute after rinsing, which is where most dense foams lose the argument. The Mary&May White Collagen Cleansing Foam whips into a thick cushion lather and carries hydrolysed collagen extract at 46.6% with niacinamide at 1%, so the step gives something back rather than only taking away. Mary&May formulates in Seoul with concentrations printed on the ingredient list, which is rarer than it should be.

Key Benefits

• Hydrolysed collagen works as a surface humectant, not a rebuild: Collagen molecules are far too large to enter the skin, and the hydrolysed form is a mix of peptides and amino acids that hold water at the surface. At 46.6% of the formula it changes how skin feels after rinsing; it does not add collagen to the dermis.
• Niacinamide is present at 1% and stated on the list: Niacinamide limits pigment transfer into surface skin cells and moderates sebum. In a rinse-off product at this level the effect is slight next to a serum, and a stated figure still beats an unstated one.
• A saponified soap base is the trade-off for the lather: Myristic, palmitic, stearic and lauric acids neutralised with potassium hydroxide create the density. That chemistry runs alkaline, so skin that dislikes soap-based cleansers will notice it here whatever else is in the formula.

Texture & Finish

The lather is thick and cushioning, closer to shaving foam than to a gel wash, and it rinses quickly. Skin feels thoroughly clean, with the slight tautness a soap base produces. Beeswax sits in the formula and it carries a light fragrance.

Ideal For

• Skin types: Normal, combination and oily skin.
• Skin concerns: Daily cleansing, dullness, uneven tone, and excess oil.
• Best used by: If you like the feeling of a proper foam and want one that is not purely subtractive, this sits between the two.

FAQ

Q: How does this compare with a low-pH gel cleanser?
A: A low-pH gel stays near the skin's own acidity and leaves it feeling settled rather than squeaky. This is a saponified foam, so it cleanses harder and runs alkaline, with the collagen and niacinamide offsetting part of that. Skin that runs dry or reactive will prefer the gel; skin that likes a real lather will prefer this.

Q: Does collagen in skincare rebuild the collagen in my skin?
A: No. Collagen molecules are too large to pass the skin barrier, and topical collagen acts as a humectant holding water at the surface. The hydrolysed form here is peptides and amino acids doing exactly that. Raising collagen in the skin happens through other actives, such as retinoids or Vitamin C.

Q: Can I use this as a second cleanse?
A: Yes. On days with sunscreen or makeup, use an oil cleanser or balm first and this as the water-based step. The routine then runs toner or essence, actives, moisturiser, and sunscreen last in the morning.

The 46.6% is the honest part of the label; what it does is smaller than the number implies, and the number is still worth having printed.